Because our trip to Rio was a bit of an unplanned splurge, we tried to keep our spending in check while we were there. We didn’t get to visit Pao de Acucar during our trip last year, due to foggy weather, and hoped to check it out this time around. Friends back home introduced us to a local, Anna, who offered to guide us on a hike in the area.
We met her at the base of Pao de Acucar (translating to Sugarloaf, because it resembles a giant loaf of bread) in Rio’s neighborhood of Urca, offering sweet views from Praia Vermelha.
This is a fun little underrated beach. Nowhere near as crowded as Copacabana with lots of surfers and other water sports partakers about. There’s also a little park further inland, near the ticket counter for rides up the Pao de Acucar tram which seemed nice for reading and relaxing, clandestine meetings, or what have you.
But our goal of the day was to climb, not to relax, so when Anna arrived we headed straight for the trail up Morro da Urca, the smaller “mountain” to the left of Pao de Acucar.
The trail begins on a paved path directly to the left of Praia Vermelha, you can’t miss it, but if you do I’m sure a friendly carioca can point you in the right direction. It’s about a 5 minute walk or less to the real trail head. On the way, we spotted some wildlife.
These little guys were not afraid of us at all. Cute little buggers. A quick peek-a-boo view through the trees, and then it was time to start climbing.
Since we haven’t had much opportunity to hike lately, I found the ascent to the top of Morro da Urca to be moderately challenging. It’s a quick 45 minutes to the top, but there are very few reprieves from elevation increase. After a bit of huffing and puffing (note to self, upgrade my workout game), we arrived at the top.
The sun was going down to our left, offering stunning views of the ocean, the city and the distant Corcovado statue.
To the right, we were up close and personal with Pao de Acucar.
We could have bought tickets and taken the tram over to main event, but I have a strange aversion to tourist attractions that require waiting in line. Plus, our guide had a better idea. We went back down the morro, and into the neighborhood of Urca lined with fancy houses and, obviously, water views.
Anna explained that going to hang out along the waterfront in Urca was a quintessential carioca thing to do. Friends gather to eat pasteis, a traditional Brazilian fried pastry, drink beer and chill out, enjoying the views. Twist my arm. We got a beer to share and pasteles de camarão (shrimp) at the famous Bar Urca, the perfect way to unwind after a hike.
Although we didn’t see Urca or Pao de Acucar in the typical way, I feel like we saw it through the eyes of a local.
I think Brazil officially has the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen. Also, how did you not sneak one of those little critters into your purse and bring him home??
I was just saying this to someone this morning! I’m going to miss them so much! I think a large part of it is that the sun sets really early here, since it’s winter, but the days are mostly warm and gorgeous so I’m more likely to be out and able to enjoy them.
I get irrationally irritated when I see people hiking in flip flips. Not sure why but it makes my blood boil!
Sounds like you guys had an amazing time. Brazil is definitely inching it’s way up on my “to visit” list!
It really is bizarre. How do you not get hurt? Brazil is definitely a wonderful place to visit. I’d recommend it to anyone!
I loved Rio when I was there so much but I feel like I nearly didn’t see enough of this gorgeous city. Definitely hope to go back soon! Beautiful shots.
Thank you Naomi! That was how I felt after my first trip. It was good to go back and explore a little deeper, but even that wasn’t enough!
Now that was a rewarding hike! The place and the views it offers are amazing! Lucky you who got to experience it with a local. Will keep that in mind for whenever I’ll get the chance to visit!
We definitely wouldn’t have had the same experience if we’d done it on our own. Getting to know locals and their insights is always so rewarding. Thanks for reading Carla!
Such a cool story. I enjoy serendipitous encounters like that.
There is nothing as great as getting a tour from a local. They always have great things to do, and you can be pretty sure that it’s not going to be something you’ll find in a guidebook. And isn’t that what travel is really all about: experiencing a new place?
P.S. – You’ve left me wondering how much you saved by not taking the tourist tram.
Great question Linda! Adult tickets up the tram are $62 reais (around $20 USD depending on the exchange rate). So not a huge savings, but it made a difference!
What an absolutely stunning view with the sun setting over the mountain and sea, it’s always great to get a local to show you an area they know the best vantage points.
Thank you so much Sally! It was one of my most memorable days in Brazil, and having a local/new friend to show us the parts we wouldn’t have found on our own was icing on the cake!
I am one of those “tourists” who waited in line to go up to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain. My Girlfriend and I were there midday as part of this day long tour around Rio’s top sights, and all we saw was a foggy haze in the horizon and a boat load of other tourists trying to all take the same panoramic shot of Rio. It took us 30 minutes to wait in line to get to Sugar Loaf Mountain, and our tour guide only gave us 20 minutes at the top to take photos. So, I envy you as you did it the right way by hiking and chilling at the seaside with the locals.
Looks like a great hike. Those little lemurs are so cute! I’m hoping to head to South America in September, thanks for the info.
Thanks for reading Amy! Where are you going in South America? Have an amazing trip!
Peru and Columbia in September if all goes to plan 😉
Have an amazing time! I’m bummed I didn’t get to visit either of those countries when I was in South America, but hopefully someday soon!