The heat in DC has been brutal these past few weeks. I like hot weather, but when temperatures creep above 95 and decide to rendezvous with the district’s infamous humidity, I have to tap out and stay inside. One of my favorite ways to enjoy the city without sweating to death is an air-conditioned brunch followed by a trip to a museum. Our latest combination was a good one – brunch at Central followed by a trip to the National Air and Space Museum.
Michel Richard’s Central has been on my DC restaurant wish list for years, but somehow I’ve never managed to make it happen. Brunch seemed like a good opportunity to finally check out the classic restaurant, and its proximity to some of DC’s best museums made it the perfect choice.
Central offers a three-course Sunday brunch with a bottomless drink option. Who am I to say no to a bloody Mary or two? Central’s version is a solid classic, not the best I’ve ever had but far from the worst. I was a little sad about the lack of edible garnish, my favorite thing about bloodies, but with all the food we had coming it was probably for the best.
We started out light with our first courses, even though the pancakes were calling my name. I had the watermelon salad with ricotta and pistachios, perfect for a hot summer day. I felt that ricotta was an odd choice of cheese in such a simple dish, as it didn’t add much flavor or texture, but my obsession with watermelon runs strong and I devoured the entire thing without a second thought.
Tom’s yellow tomato gazpacho with burrata was a lot more interesting. I loved the creamy texture combined with crisp peppers and crunchy croutons.
Our mains were as hearty as our starters were light. My corned beef hash with crispy potatoes, fresh herbs and perfectly poached eggs was classically prepared and quite tasty. Sadly, it was lukewarm when it arrived and cold after the first few bites, but the flavorful meat made up for that flaw. I liked, but didn’t love this dish, although Tom really enjoyed it.
Tom went the predictable route and ordered his favorite brunch food, fried chicken and waffles. Central is famous for its fried chicken, so I was very excited to taste this dish.
The juicy chicken breast, breaded delicately with the perfect flaky and crispy texture, was definitely the star of the plate. Thick and buttery mashed potatoes were the chicken’s best complement. The chicken was right up my alley, as I’m more of a white meat gal and don’t like dealing with bones, but Tom wished there had been a little dark meat on the plate as well. The waffles were standard and the syrup underneath far too sweet for my taste, although I can see how the juxtaposition of the sweet and savory could have a certain appeal.
I had expected small portions, considering the small price tag of Central’s brunch, and was pleasantly surprised when that turned out not to be the case. It did make eating dessert a bit of a challenge, though.
My choice of passion fruit mousse with fresh berries was a delight and not too heavy after a big meal. I especially enjoyed the basil cream (or maybe syrup?) which added a nice earthy flavor to the sweet and tangy mousse.
Tom opted for another Central classic, the lemon eggceptional, candy shells filled with tangy lemon custard.
Overall, we had a good experience at this stalwart of the DC dining scene. Prior to arriving for our meal, I looked up a few reviews of the restaurant and found it odd that several patrons complained about the service. I must admit, however, that after our meal I somewhat agreed with these sentiments. Service was very adequate, but a bit detached and impersonal. There were a couple of rowdy tables around us, no doubt enjoying the bottomless drinks, so I can understand if the servers were a bit taxed. However, that’s to be expected when you offer an unlimited drink option. With a slightly warmer and more personable service experience, we probably would have raved about this brunch.
All that said, paying $27 for three courses of delicious, high-quality food certainly made up for any downfalls. Brunch at Central is a great way to taste the culinary magic at one of DC’s most legendary restaurants, without breaking the bank.
Leave a Reply